Wiring Diagram For 2010 Ford Escape Pcm Pin Pinout Diagram

Lots of you folks have had the pleasure of paying multiple tow bills to the dealer to get the dreaded fuel pump module repaired—if not for a little while. Well, fool me twice. I figured out how to bypass it temporarily while I order a new module and install it myself.

With just a little electrical knowledge and some patience you can do this. Took me about 45 minutes taking my time.

Back story: car broke down, duh, luckily had my electrical kit with me so I began digging into connector at module and figured out what is power and ground supply to and from the module and fuel pump. Fashioned some temp jumpers out of 12awg wire and jammed them in the cavities as seen below:

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Doing it this way forced me to leave the connector unplugged which, no big deal, engine ran fine for several hundred km on the way home. The wrench icon did come on and stay on but no codes thrown.

Get back to my shop and I permanently installed a set of jumpers. Pics attached. Basically I just made a removeable power and ground loop which I can simply plugin and boom, bypass the fuel pump module altogether. It also allows me to leave it plugged in and thus the wrench light stays off.

Two wires spliced together:

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Permanent jumpers installed:

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I do not recommend keeping it permanently bypassed as in a collision the restraints module can actually turn off the fuel pump. Also I'm not entirely sure what relation the pcm has to this module but they are connected. Perhaps it is just an on/off switch as the module is powered at all times when key on.

The wires you want to connect together are:

WHT/TAN and BLK/GRN - this is the ground circuit
YEL/GRY and VIO/GRN - this is the power circuit

If your colours vary, it is the 4 large wire gauge pins numbers 1,4,5,8. 1 and 5 get jumped together and 4 and 8 get jumped together.

Jumping those connections will turn on the fuel pump allowing you to start the engine. The fuel pump will be 'on' any time the key is on.

Anyways, I plan on keeping my jumpers in the glove box. I always a small tool kit anyways which has the 7mm socket needed to remove that C pillar panel so I shouldn't have to pay for a tow again.

Hope this helps you guys. I know a lot of you are handy and can do this mod yourselves.

Obviously if you're under warranty I would not suggest this. My car is out of warranty. Of course common sense prevails, do not do this if you don't know what you're doing with electrical and always make sure the key is off.

Source: https://www.fordflex.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=20842

Posted by: brown127.blogspot.com